Just after leaving the Forbidden City, Stephanie and I were standing in the square in front of the South gate (the one with Mao’s picture above it) when a couple of Chinese students asked us how we were doing. We responded that we were doing well, and asked them how they were doing. They clearly knew this ritual and followed it pretty much as you’d expect anywhere in the world, articulating very carefully. Our good friend Art, who is teaching English at Zhejiang University in Hangzhou, has told us that it’s very common for Chinese English students to try to spend time with native English speakers so they can practice. Consequently, we were not surprised by this behavior. She said her name was “Coco” and and he said his was “Shadow”. You can see a picture of them with Stephanie in today’s post on Lina’s page.
It turned out that they were going in the same direction we were headed (south to Tian’anmen Square). We had also planned to go to the Temple of Heaven, but Shadow informed us that the “famous places” all close at 3pm, so it was too late. He suggested that we go to the hutong district, and since this was what we had planned for after the Temple of Heaven, we agreed. They said they were also going there since Coco had not yet been there (she hadn’t been to the Forbidden City yet, either, which was why they were there in the first place).
Coco and Shadow were not a couple; they were neighbors in their home town in Wuhan who both came to Beijing to study English. They were two years into a five year program for translators, and both spoke very reasonable English, though there were some phrases they got stuck on and they occasionally used odd idioms.
It was nice to have local “guides”, and they were both friendly and interesting. They seemed to have a set of questions they had learned to ask, like “Where are you from?” (I tried to explain the difference between Washington DC and Washington State, but it is a bit confusing) and “How many people live in your country?” (neither of us was sure–we guessed 400 million). When we asked how many lived in China, they also didn’t know. Billions, they guessed. They did know numbers for Beijing (13 million) in and Shanghai (25 million).
Along the way, Shadow asked me whether I had seen the traditional tea ceremony. I said that I hadn’t, and he said that it was the time of the tea festival and that that later they were going to “see the tea ceremony” at a place that “a friend to us” had recommended. After touring the hutong area, we ended up in a shopping district that Shadow called the “First Walking Street” (our guidebook calls it Qianmen) and eventually in front of the location of the tea ceremony: the “Catital Tea House” [sic].
Mystic portal to the tea ceremong [sic]
[it's late and I'm tired, so the rest will have to wait for tomorrow...]
[sorry for the intermission; now the story continues]
Shadow asked us whether we would like to “see” the tea ceremony, and we said that we would very much like to. We went in and up three flights of stairs (pausing to rub the buddha’s stomach along the way) and were immediately seated in a small private room (there were others along the same hallway, including one with a shrine and another where tea paraphernalia were on display for sale.
It turned out that “seeing” the tea ceremony, essentially really meant tasting, meanwhile learning about what ailments or parts of the body the teas were good for, what water temperature was appropriate for that tea, how to properly hold the cups (different for men and women), etc. For some teas, the first steeping was discarded, for others not. The leader of the ceremony was a young woman in a simple but elegant silk outfit. She spoke only Chinese, which gave first Shadow and then Coco chances to practice translation, which they did very well.
The five teas we tasted were:
- Oolong with ginseng
- Jasmine
- Fruit
- Green
- Black tea with something that I can’t remember right now
They were all exceptionally good. While we were waiting for the water to reach 100 degrees Celcius for the Fruit tea, the ceremony leader left for a moment and brought back “tea snacks”: some flavored in-shell pumpkin seeds and some crunchy-coated peanuts. All in all it was very enjoyable and we were happy that we were able to experience it.
Perhaps not surprisingly (if not for the fact that we are in a communist country), at the end we got a hard sell to buy some tea. It started with the offer of “free boxes”. Our choice of beautiful cardboard or “wood” (we’d call it pressboard) tea boxes, to be filled with whichever teas we liked. Again, much emphasis was placed upon the fact that these boxes were “free”. Since our luggage was already very full, we chose a single box (the first ones presented were double–two tea boxes inside a larger box). Coco chose the double wood box to share with Shadow.
Next, there was an opportunity to buy a tea set, which we declined (we didn’t even consider it due to our luggage space and weight limitations. Plus the whole “free” box thing reminded me too much of the hard sell at the end of a time share presentation, and I was sure I didn’t want to get suckered in to overpaying for a tea set.
At this point, you may be wondering about prices. I was, too, but our experience in Beijing has been that stuff is very inexpensive and besides, these two university students were in with us, so it couldn’t be that bad, right?
Yeah, yeah, I know. My hindsight is 20-20, too.
Our ceremony leader left to fill our tea boxes, brought them to us, and then left again to get the bill. When she came back, she brought a well-worn laminated price card and an itemized bill. Okay, first problem, there’s only one bill–we can work that out. Second problem, there are an awful lot of lines on it. On closer inspection it turned out that there was a room charge, a charge for each tea we tasted, a separate charge for the tea snacks, plus the teas we were buying–I’m sure I’m forgetting some miscellaneous charge. The third and most worrisome problem was that there seemed to be an extra zero the total. Not two zeros such as would be appropriate for “hundredths”. Could this bill really be over three hundred dollars? The “free gift” tea pot (a small one just like the one used in the ceremony) did not raise my confidence about the price. While I was still trying to rationalize this (that is, still in denial), Shadow asked, “You pay us?” I noticed (in a detached way, still not wanting to focus on the reality of this bill) how his (and Coco’s) English got worse when we–and they–got stressed.
I told them I’d pay for the ceremony, but not for their tea. They both looked very nervous and concerned (even before I said this) and said that they hadn’t known how expensive it was. The “friend to us” had just recommended it. They said that they would “go back the tea”. I agreed we should all go back the tea and they explained this to the tea master. After some negotiation in Chinese, they apparently got to go back their tea (which took $100 off the total), but we did not get to go back ours (it’s really great tea, but no, we would never pay this for tea on purpose). The explanation for why our tea couldn’t go back apparently had something to do with something belonging to the government, and at this point communication was really breaking down. With no knowledge of appropriate pricing for this kind of thing (our CHI coordinator Lina later told us “nothing in Beijing costs that much”), and with no ability to communicate in Chinese, it seemed the best path was just to pay and go, which we did.
Coco and Shadow said they felt very bad about all this. To make it up, they would like us to join them that evening for “the Peking duck”.
We said no thank you and
caught a cab back to the hotel. Coco, in particular, looked very upset as we waved goodbye and the cab drove off. It took an hour and a half to go 23 km, but that’s another story.
Was this a scam or just ripoff pricing? The prices were certainly set up to confuse, what with all the line items. Were Shadow and Coco in on it the whole time? I’d prefer to think that maybe we just paid the “dumb tourist” prices because we didn’t ask to see how much it cost in the first place, and that Shadow and Coco just got caught up in it, but my skeptical brain tells me…well, it tells me that we’ll never know.
What did I learn? Don’t underestimate the capitalistic side of this communist country. I’d never have gotten in this situation at home, where I’d have been much more skeptical or even suspicious.